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Wayne Stephenson imageProfessor

MSc(Cant)
PhD(Cant)

Richardson Building, room 4N4
Office Hours: email to make an appointment
Tel +64 3 479 8776
Email wayne.stephenson@otago.ac.nz
Google Scholar: Wayne Stephenson

Teaching

Research interests

My research focuses on coastal geomorphology, particularly the processes that shape rock coasts and their responses to tectonic activity, extreme events and climate change. A central theme is understanding how interactions between geological setting, wave processes, weathering and sediment dynamics control the morphology and rates of change of rock coasts. This work combines long-term field measurements with topographic surveying, numerical modelling and analysis of coastal change across a range of spatial and temporal scales.

A major focus of my recent research has been the response of the Kaikōura coast to the 2016 Mw 7.8 earthquake. The earthquake uplifted extensive areas of shore platform and created a new marine terrace, providing an unusual opportunity to observe how a rock coast adjusts following rapid tectonic displacement. Building on a long-term erosion-monitoring programme extending back to the 1970s, this research examines changes in erosion rates, wave exposure, sediment dynamics and cliff and platform morphology following uplift. More broadly, I am interested in how tectonics, sea level change and geological inheritance interact to produce rock coast landforms and how rapidly those landforms can be modified or removed.

A related strand of my research examines the role of extreme events in coastal change. This includes the effects of storms and extreme waves on rock coasts, erosion and transport of coastal boulders, rapid cliff and landform failure, and the implications of episodic erosion for interpreting longer-term coastal evolution. I am particularly interested in challenging simple assumptions about coastal response to sea level rise. Rock coasts do not necessarily respond through uniform acceleration of erosion, and understanding their future behaviour requires consideration of changes in wave energy, water depth, rock resistance, sediment availability and inherited morphology.

My broader coastal geomorphology research includes mixed sand-and-gravel beaches, sediment abrasion and transport, rip currents, coastal weathering, fetch-limited beaches and coral reef and reef-island geomorphology. Recent collaborative research has included work on reef-island adjustment to environmental change in the Maldives and on the measurement of pebble and cobble abrasion on mixed-sediment beaches. Across these projects, my interest is in linking direct measurements of contemporary processes with longer-term landscape evolution.

Coastal management and coastal hazards form an important applied component of my work. My interests include coastal erosion, sea level rise, hazard assessment, adaptation and the conservation of coastal environments. I regularly provide scientific advice to communities, councils and government agencies. This work includes coastal hazard assessment, technical review, environmental impact assessment and expert evidence for planning and resource-management processes.

Potential student projects

I welcome enquiries from prospective MSc and PhD students interested in coastal geomorphology, coastal hazards and coastal management. Projects can be developed around a student's particular interests, but my current research interests include:

  • Rock coast erosion and morphodynamics
  • Rock resistance and geological controls on coastal evolution
  • Tectonic coasts and marine terrace evolution
  • Extreme events and rapid coastal change
  • Coastal response to sea-level rise and climate change
  • Sediment connectivity across river–coast–shelf systems
  • Mixed-sediment beach morphodynamics and abrasion
  • Coastal hazards, adaptation and management

Other projects within coastal geomorphology are also possible, and I particularly welcome proposals that utilise remote sensing, spatial analysis, numerical modelling or long-term environmental datasets.

Recent research grants

Postgraduate supervision

Current supervision

  • Charlie Cox, PhD: Sediment Connectivity on a high-energy coast
  • Md Sakaouth Hossain, PhD: Shore Platform erosion rates assessed with InSAR and Micro-erosion meters
  • Kim Kessler, PhD: Community-Based Development in Times of a Changing Climate: Insights from Fiji

Previous supervision

  • Corban Church, 2025 MSc: Risk tolerance in communities threatened by coastal hazards.
  • Lovleen Chowdrey 2025 PhD (University of Auckland): Unveiling Coastal Dynamics: Integrating Empirical Data and Modelling to Resolve Equifinality in Shore Profile Development
  • Sophie Horton, 2023 PhD: Changing process regimes on uplifted shore platforms
  • Raphael Krier, 2023 PhD: Wave transformation across shore platforms.
  • Jokotola Taiwo, 2023 PhD: Multi-scale erosion dynamics on shore platforms
  • Amanda Riddle, 2022 MSc: Depth of Disturbance on Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches
  • Mitchel Dingwall, 2022 MSc: Holocene sea level variations on the Canterbury coast
  • Runjie Yuan, 2021 PhD (University of Melbourne): Micro-erosion of shore platforms
  • Cesar Ramiraz, 2021 PhD: Wave attenuation and bed roughness over coral reefs
  • Ashlyn Gallaher, 2021 MSc: Halemda sediment production and abrasion on a Maldivian coral reef
  • Ryan Adam, 2019 MSC: Storm surge and beach response in southern New Zealand
  • Craig MacDonell, 2019 MSc (Surveying): A new eye on ecology:  4-Dimensional mapping with RPAS to characterise the spatio-temporal evolution of the Okia Reserve coastal restoration programme
  • Danielle Buchanan, 2018 MSC (University of Glasgow): Decadal to multi-decadal erosion of shore platforms
  • Cameron Hay, 2018 MAppSc Environmental Management: Sandy beach interactions with a seawall: A 9-year record of beach profile change, St Clair, Dunedin
  • Leigh McKenzie, 2017 MENVM: Farmers market food
  • Dong Shuyun, 2017 PhD: Modelling typhoon impacts on coastal Shanghai
  • Runjie Yuan, 2017 MSC: The drivers of hourly-scale surface change on shore platforms. University of Melbourne (co-supervisor)
  • Hannah Payne-Harker, 2016 MPLAN: Ecosystem services-based management: Evaluation of an approach to coastal management and decision making in New Zealand
  • Chen Bin, 2015 PhD: Abrasion in mixed sand and gravel beaches
  • Margaret Winter, 2013 MSc: Classification of mixed lacustrine beaches
  • Aaron Edwards, 2012 MPlan: Surf break management
  • Brigitte Allen, 2011 MPlan: Transport planning in the Wellington CBD
  • Caitlin Chew, 2011 BAppSc(Hons): Impacts on dredge spoil on paua
  • Greg Stevenson, 2010 BSc(Hons): Risk perception to tsunami hazards

Publications

Hossain, M. S., Stephenson, W., Yuan, R., Kennedy, D. M., Dickson, M., & Rahman, A. (2026). Multiscale downwearing dynamics and temporal memory of shore platforms revealed through hierarchical statistical modelling of long-term micro-erosion meter observations, Otway Coast, Australia. Marine Geology, 501, 107877. doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2026.107877 Journal - Research Article

Kirk, R. M., Stephenson, W. J., Dickson, M. E., Horton, S. L., Omidiji, J. J., Hossain, M. S., … Hurst, M. D. (2026). Fifty years of shore platform erosion monitoring at Kaikōura Peninsula, South Island, Aotearoa-New Zealand. Earth Surface Processes & Landforms, 51, e70360. doi: 10.1002/esp.70360 Journal - Research Article

Kennedy, D. M., Jones, R., Yuan, R., Fink, D., Fujioka, T., Hurst, M., Stephenson, W. J., & Woodroffe, C. D. (2026). Shore platform morphological inheritance from past higher sea levels in a microtidal setting. Marine Geology, 500, 107850. doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2026.107850 Journal - Research Article

Horton, S. L., Dickson, M. E., & Stephenson, W. J. (2026). The influence of ex-tropical cyclones on marine terrace retreat. Earth Surface Processes & Landforms, 51(6), e70312. doi: 10.1002/esp.70312 Journal - Research Article

Cox, R., Bourke, M. C., Engel, M., Kennedy, A. B., Lau, A., Suanez, S., … Stephenson, W., … Watanabe, M. (2025). Understanding extreme-wave hazards on high-energy coasts requires a standardised approach to field data collection: Analysis and recommendations. Natural Hazards & Earth System Sciences, 25(10), 4203-4226. doi: 10.5194/nhess-25-4203-2025 Journal - Research Article

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